The Balkan Tour - Revision history

Miki at 22:57, 15 March 2024

2024-03-15T22:57:08Z

Miki at 13:09, 12 March 2024

2024-03-12T13:09:48Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:09, 12 March 2024
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	== Days 22 and 23: The road to Budapest ==		== Days 22 and 23: The road to Budapest ==

	And another day on driving.		And another day on driving. We planned to visit Cluj-Napoca, but the road took way more time than expected. As we arrived to the city it was already quite late in the afternoon and we decided to skip sightseeing and just go to sleep.

			The next day we wanted to stop by in Debrecen, but a large traffic jam few kilometres after the Hungarian border caused us to skip that, too.

	=== Tokaj ===		=== Tokaj ===

			We stopped for some food in Tokaj, a place famous for [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tokaji sweet white wines]. The town itself is tiny (about 4 thousand residents) and can be walked around in minutes and, apart from tens of wine cellars, does not have much to offer.

	== Day 24: Budapest ==		== Day 24: Budapest ==

Miki at 12:42, 12 March 2024

2024-03-12T12:42:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:42, 12 March 2024
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	== Days 12 and 13: The road to Athens ==		== Days 12 and 13: The road to Athens ==

	Crossing Albania took us an entire day full of adventures, including a car crash somewhere in the mountains. Luckily, nobody got hurt and the only thing that suffered ~~were~~ left-side front door. And a few hours of waiting until someone with a decent knowledge of English from the nearby village showed up ;) This accident _crashed_ our hopes of seeing Gjirokastër, a city with an Ottoman-built Old Town.		Crossing Albania took us an entire day full of adventures, including a car crash somewhere in the mountains. Luckily, nobody got hurt and the only thing that suffered was the left-side front door. And a few hours of waiting until someone with a decent knowledge of English from the nearby village showed up ;) This accident _crashed_ our hopes of seeing Gjirokastër, a city with an Ottoman-built Old Town.

			A few hours later we crossed the border with Greece and got greeted by an absolute lack of respect for driving laws. I gave up following them when a truck overtook me in the middle of a residential area in a no-overtaking zone. After a night in Ioannina we continued for a few hours to finally reach the capital.

	== Days 14 and 15: Athens and Piraeus ==		== Days 14 and 15: Athens and Piraeus ==

			Athens is, by far, the worst place I have ever driven a car in. If you take the chaotic traffic out, it turns out to be a nice city that, surprisingly, did not feel like a tourist trap. Sure, there were a few of "watah, watah ma frind? one euro only for you! no watah? umbrella? tree euro for you only!" and a few "want to visit a nice place? a really nice place, you know?" and some "you need a ticket? the booth is closed already, but I have a few left", but other than that is was just a nice and pleasant sightseeing.

			And yes, the Parthenon is a remarkable site and seeing something that has thousands of years leaves you in awe. But millions of words were written about that already.

	== Day 16: The road to Thessaloniki ==		== Day 16: The road to Thessaloniki ==

			This entire day was spent on driving north to Thessaloniki. On the way we stopped at Thermopylae, where a monument of Leonidas stands at the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Thermopylae memorial of the famous battle].

	== Day 17: Thessaloniki ==		== Day 17: Thessaloniki ==

			Thessaloniki is an interesting place. On one hand it has a beatufiul boulevard by the sea with its famous tower and quite a number of old churches, ruins and the like. On the other, there are countless abandoned buildings, the feeling of not being of any interest to tourism in general and maybe also of not being interested in tourism? Either way, the city is well worth visiting, as the prices were cheaper than in Athens and the food was equally delicious.

	== Day 18: The road to Sofia ==		== Day 18: The road to Sofia ==

			Yet another day spent on driving with very little history.

	== Day 19: Sofia ==		== Day 19: Sofia ==

			Sofia is full of everything - it is one of those destinations that slip under the radar, because, be honest, why would you even go to Bulgaria? Yet, there it is - not as clean and polished as major capitals, definitely poor, but filled to the brim with interesting locations. One of them being the Boyana Church from 11th century, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

	== Day 20: The road to Bucharest ==		== Day 20: The road to Bucharest ==

			And another day spent on driving, but this time with a stop to another World Heritage Site.

	=== Ivanovo ===		=== Ivanovo ===

			Few kilometres from the city of Ivanovo (itself a little detour from the road E85 connecting Bulgaria with Bucharest) are the [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rock-hewn_Churches_of_Ivanovo Rock-hewn churches]. Located in the middle of beautiful nowhere, with breath-taking views of the river Rusenski Lom, the remainings of those churches are a real gem.

	== Day 21: Bucharest ==		== Day 21: Bucharest ==

			If there is a monument to a sick ambition of a derailed person, modern Bucharest has to be one. The entire centre of the city was demolished to make room for a ridiculously overgrown [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palace_of_the_Parliament Palace of the Parliment]. This thing is so large that it is almost impossible to comprehend - when looked at from Unirii park, the Palace is already massive and dominates over everything else, and it is still over a kilometre away! Mere walking the streets around it takes about an hour.

			Aside from that Bucharest has a few interesting churches and buildings hidden from plain view, as if they escaped the mad man that was in charge. Which probably is true.

			All in all, Bucharest was a mixed bag. It has its landmarks, but is not a place that left me willing to see more.

	== Days 22 and 23: The road to Budapest ==		== Days 22 and 23: The road to Budapest ==

			And another day on driving.

	=== Tokaj ===		=== Tokaj ===

Miki at 14:38, 5 March 2024

2024-03-05T14:38:37Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:38, 5 March 2024
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	If Sarajevo was a pot in which cultures mix, then Mostar is the exact opposite of that. The river Neretva splits the city into two - and so is the separation between churches and mosques.		If Sarajevo was a pot in which cultures mix, then Mostar is the exact opposite of that. The river Neretva splits the city into two - and so is the separation between churches and mosques.
	There are two impressive sights of Mostar. The first one is obviously the bridge, completely destroyed by the Croatian Army during the Balkan war and rebuilt 10 years later (so 4 years before the trirp).		There are two impressive sights of Mostar. The first one is obviously the bridge, completely destroyed by the Croatian Army during the Balkan war and rebuilt 10 years later (so 4 years before we took the trirp).
	The second is the abandoned building near the Spanish square - a silent witness to the war.		The second is the abandoned building near the Spanish square - a silent witness to the war.

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	== Day 10: Kotor and Podgorica ==		== Day 10: Kotor and Podgorica ==

	Kotor is located on what is often called _the southernmost fiord_ ~~and it~~ less than 100 km south from Dubrovnik. It is also an old city within city walls, but way less crowded than its definitely more famous Croatian counterpart.		Kotor is located on what is often called _the southernmost fiord_, less than 100 km south from Dubrovnik. It is also an old city within city walls, but way less crowded than its definitely more famous Croatian counterpart. This naturally affects the prices in a good way - even us, a pair of students, could afford a table of cheese and some prsut in a fancy looking place within the Old Town.

	== Day 11: ~~Tirane~~ ==		== Day 11: Tirana ==

			Ah, Albania. The country (back then) nobody wanted to go to. Neither did we, but the alternative route to Greece leads through Serbia and 2008 was when Kosovo declared its independence, which Poland quickly recognised. Therefore, we thought going through Serbia with a Polish-registered vehicle was not a smart move - and that forced us to go through Albania.

			To be fair, it was not that different from the surrounding regions. Sure, maybe a bit poorer and less developed, but making up the difference with hospitality and just absolutely fabulous food. Tirana itself is an interesting city with many monuments to its troubled modern history.

	== Days 12 and 13: The road to Athens ==		== Days 12 and 13: The road to Athens ==

			Crossing Albania took us an entire day full of adventures, including a car crash somewhere in the mountains. Luckily, nobody got hurt and the only thing that suffered were left-side front door. And a few hours of waiting until someone with a decent knowledge of English from the nearby village showed up ;) This accident _crashed_ our hopes of seeing Gjirokastër, a city with an Ottoman-built Old Town.

	== Days 14 and 15: Athens and Piraeus ==		== Days 14 and 15: Athens and Piraeus ==

Miki at 12:52, 13 February 2024

2024-02-13T12:52:30Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:52, 13 February 2024
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	== Day 1: Gdańsk to Wrocław ==		== Day 1: Gdańsk to Wrocław ==

	As we visited Wrocław a few times before, we decided to skip it almost entirely. Back then (I will use this phrase often in this article - the world really is a different place in 2023 compared to 2008!) the roads in Poland were in a terrible shape and driving from Gdańsk to Wrocław took more than 8 hours - so after arriving in quite late afternoon we decided to do a quick walk around the Old Town, eat something and get to sleep before the next travel.		As we visited Wrocław a few times before, we decided to skip it almost entirely. Back then (I will use this phrase often in this article - the world really is a different place in 2023/24 compared to 2008!) the roads in Poland were in a terrible shape and driving from Gdańsk to Wrocław took more than 8 hours - so after arriving in quite late afternoon we decided to do a quick walk around the Old Town, eat something and get to sleep before the next travel.

	== Day 2: Wrocław to Vienna ==		== Day 2: Wrocław to Vienna ==

	Another day spent on driving. We were briefly considering stopping in Brno, but quickly realised it is not possible, as getting out of Poland took way more time that it should. Luckily the closer to Vienna we got, the better the road was.		Another day spent on driving. We were briefly considering stopping in Brno, but quickly realised it is not possible, as getting out of Poland took way more time that it should. Luckily the closer to Vienna we got, the better the road was. Things have improved in the recent years and now it is possible to drive from Gdańsk to Vienna in one day with the motorway A1 that cuts through the entire country to Czechia.

	== Day 3: The Wachau Valley ==		== Day 3: The Wachau Valley ==

	Vienna is located on the Danube river, one of the most important rivers in Europe. It roughly flows north-west to south-east through the city, but before it enters the capital, it baiscally flows west to east. Along the Danube, roughly an hour drive away, lies Krems and other charming cities in the Wachau Valley.		Vienna is located on the Danube river, one of the most important rivers in Europe. It roughly flows north-west to south-east through the city, but before it enters the capital, it baiscally flows west to east. Along the Danube, roughly an hour drive away, lies Krems and other charming cities in the Wachau Valley. Notably, the cultural landscape of the valley is the UNESCO [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_World_Heritage_Sites_in_Austria World Heritage]. The [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Heritage_Sites_by_country list itself] has been very helpful in planning other trips, not only this one.

	== Days 4: Vienna ==		== Days 4: Vienna ==
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	=== Maribor ===		=== Maribor ===

	This was my first (and ~~so far~~ the only) visit to Slovenia. This country is more famous for its nature rather than cities, and probably for a reason. The scenery and landscapes along the way were really beautiful, but the same sadly could not be said about Maribor. I remember the city as a gray and dull place, as if its potential has not been discovered. Then again I am pretty sure things have imrpoved in the last 15 years.		This was my first (and as of 2024 also the only) visit to Slovenia. This country is more famous for its nature rather than cities, and probably for a reason. The scenery and landscapes along the way were really beautiful, but the same sadly could not be said about Maribor. I remember the city as a gray and dull place, as if its potential has not been discovered. Then again I am pretty sure things have imrpoved in the last 15 years.

	== Day 6: Zagreb ==		== Day 6: Zagreb ==

	What a lovely place that is!		What a lovely place that is!

	(more on Zagreb to come)		(more on Zagreb to come)
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	=== Jajce ===		=== Jajce ===

	A small town on the way from Croatia to Sarajevo, famous for its castle on the hill. Sadly, we did not have enough time to see the city itself - we just stopped by ~~the~~ shop, snapped a photo of the hill and drove away.		A small town on the way from Croatia to Sarajevo, famous for its castle on the hill. Sadly, we did not have enough time to see the city itself - we just stopped by a shop, snapped a photo of the hill and drove away.

			Jajce and Banja Luka are located within Republika Srpska, a part of Bosnia and Herzegovina with a Serbian majority... and it shows, sometimes in a bad way. For example, the city signs should feature names written in both the cyryllic and latin alphabets, but often the latin parts were spayed black.

	== Day 8: Sarajevo, Mostar and the road to Dubrovnik ==		== Day 8: Sarajevo, Mostar and the road to Dubrovnik ==
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	=== Sarajevo ===		=== Sarajevo ===

	I praised Zagreb already - Sarajevo is on par. It has a vibe of a city that has been through some rough times, but it knows it came back stronger. This city is diverse, full of cultures and people mixing, coexisting and influencing one another. A surprise for me, who lived most of my life in a somewhat homogenous city that was diverse and full of cultures throughout ~~most of~~ its history.		I praised Zagreb already - Sarajevo is on par. It has a vibe of a city that has been through some rough times, but it knows it came back stronger. This city is diverse, full of cultures and people mixing, coexisting and influencing one another. A surprise for me, who lived most of my life in a somewhat homogenous city (that was diverse and full of cultures throughout its history, but not in the present).

	(more on Sarajevo to come)		(more on Sarajevo to come)
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	== Day 9: Dubrovnik ==		== Day 9: Dubrovnik ==

			The city walls and the old town are impressive sights for sure. Equally impressive are the prices for every single thing in this town - from the climate tax added on top of already expensive hotel prices to sightseeing tours on the city walls themselves. This attitude of an endless stream of tourists that flock to see Dubrovnik obviously negatively affects the level of service across the city.

	(more on this overpriced place to come)		(more on this overpriced place to come)

	== Day 10: Kotor and Podgorica ==		== Day 10: Kotor and Podgorica ==

			Kotor is located on what is often called _the southernmost fiord_ and it less than 100 km south from Dubrovnik. It is also an old city within city walls, but way less crowded than its definitely more famous Croatian counterpart.

	== Day 11: Tirane ==		== Day 11: Tirane ==

Miki at 12:25, 27 September 2023

2023-09-27T12:25:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:25, 27 September 2023
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	Things have changed since then, haven't they?		Things have changed since then, haven't they?

			== Choosing the cities ==

			Our road from Gdańsk to Athens obviously had to take us through Dubrovnik and Vienna (because we love that city), but everything else was up for debate. Well, almost everything else. As Kosovo declared its independence in early 2008 and the Polish government quickly recognised it, we decided that driving through Serbia and Kosovo with a car on Polish numbers would be... somewhat irresponsible.

	The route ended up as follows:		The route ended up as follows:
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	Another day spent on driving. We were briefly considering stopping in Brno, but quickly realised it is not possible, as getting out of Poland took way more time that it should. Luckily the closer to Vienna we got, the better the road was.		Another day spent on driving. We were briefly considering stopping in Brno, but quickly realised it is not possible, as getting out of Poland took way more time that it should. Luckily the closer to Vienna we got, the better the road was.

	== Day 3: The ~~Dachau~~ Valley ==		== Day 3: The Wachau Valley ==

			Vienna is located on the Danube river, one of the most important rivers in Europe. It roughly flows north-west to south-east through the city, but before it enters the capital, it baiscally flows west to east. Along the Danube, roughly an hour drive away, lies Krems and other charming cities in the Wachau Valley.

	== Days 4: Vienna ==		== Days 4: Vienna ==
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	(more on Zagreb to come)		(more on Zagreb to come)

	== Day 7: road to Sarajevo ==		== Day 7: The road to Sarajevo ==

	I have driven thousands of kilometres since 2008, but the road through the mountains in Bosnia and Herzegovina is easily the most spectacular I have ever taken. The roads are quite narrow, full of turns and tunnels, but the views along the way are very rewarding.		I have driven thousands of kilometres since 2008, but the road through the mountains in Bosnia and Herzegovina is easily the most spectacular I have ever taken. The roads are quite narrow, full of turns and tunnels, but the views along the way are very rewarding.
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	== Day 11: Tirane ==		== Day 11: Tirane ==

	== Days 12 and 13: ~~the~~ road to Athens ==		== Days 12 and 13: The road to Athens ==

	== Days 14 and 15: Athens and Piraeus ==		== Days 14 and 15: Athens and Piraeus ==

	== Day 16: ~~the~~ road to Thessaloniki ==		== Day 16: The road to Thessaloniki ==

	== Day 17: Thessaloniki ==		== Day 17: Thessaloniki ==

	== Day 18: ~~the~~ road to Sofia ==		== Day 18: The road to Sofia ==

	== Day 19: Sofia ==		== Day 19: Sofia ==

	== Day 20: ~~the~~ road to Bucharest ==		== Day 20: The road to Bucharest ==

	=== Ivanovo ===		=== Ivanovo ===
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	== Day 21: Bucharest ==		== Day 21: Bucharest ==

	== Days 22 and 23: ~~the~~ road to Budapest ==		== Days 22 and 23: The road to Budapest ==

	=== Tokaj ===		=== Tokaj ===
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	== Day 24: Budapest ==		== Day 24: Budapest ==

	== Days 25 and 26: ~~the~~ road to Gdańsk ==		== Days 25 and 26: The road to Gdańsk ==

	=== Szentendre ===		=== Szentendre ===
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	== Summary ==		== Summary ==

			The Mother of All Trips lasted nearly four weeks and included about 5500 km of driving over 12 countries. The experience, however, was well worth the trouble. As the following years show, it was not a one time show.

Miki: added day divisions

2023-09-15T08:50:44Z

added day divisions

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:50, 15 September 2023
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	== Preparations ==		== Preparations ==

	Back in 2008 the only reasonable online hotel booking experience was the [https://www.hrs.com Hotel Reservation System]. Roaming fees were common and mobile internet was really expensive - but also there were not that many devices to support it, as Andoid 1.0 was released in September that year. People also relied on separate GPS devices to use in their cars and those devices had limited map coverage basically anywhere east of Germany - so a paper map was also needed as a backup. Luckily, we got a road atlas of Europe that included city plans of major cities, including those in the Balkans.		Back in 2008 the only reasonable online hotel booking experience was the [https://www.hrs.com Hotel Reservation System]. Roaming fees were common and mobile internet was really expensive - but also there were not that many devices to support it, as Andoid 1.0 was released around the time we took the trip, in September that year. People also relied on separate GPS devices to use in their cars and those devices had limited map coverage basically anywhere east of Germany - so a paper map was also needed as a backup. Luckily, we got a road atlas of Europe that included city plans of major cities, including those in the Balkans.

	We were able to plan the entire trip with online maps, booking all hotels on the way well in advance. The lack of wide-spread internet meant that we had to print copies of the reservations and carry them with us.		We were able to plan the entire trip with online maps, booking all hotels on the way well in advance. The lack of wide-spread internet meant that we had to print copies of the reservations and carry them with us.
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	Another day spent on driving. We were briefly considering stopping in Brno, but quickly realised it is not possible, as getting out of Poland took way more time that it should. Luckily the closer to Vienna we got, the better the road was.		Another day spent on driving. We were briefly considering stopping in Brno, but quickly realised it is not possible, as getting out of Poland took way more time that it should. Luckily the closer to Vienna we got, the better the road was.

	== Days 3, 4 ~~and 5~~: Vienna ==		== Day 3: The Dachau Valley ==

			== Days 4: Vienna ==

	I have had a pleasure of visiting Vienna twice before that trip and every time it was a blast. It easily is in the top 10 best cities to live and be in.		I have had a pleasure of visiting Vienna twice before that trip and every time it was a blast. It easily is in the top 10 best cities to live and be in.
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	(more on Vienna to come)		(more on Vienna to come)

	== Day 6: Graz, Maribor and the road to Zagreb ==		== Day 5: Graz, Maribor and the road to Zagreb ==

	The route to Zagreb, our next stop, was leading through two bigger settlements: Graz and Maribor. It was too good of an opportunity to pass it and we decided to do a few hour stop in each of the cities.		The route to Zagreb, our next stop, was leading through two bigger settlements: Graz and Maribor. It was too good of an opportunity to pass it and we decided to do a few hour stop in each of the cities.
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	This was my first (and so far the only) visit to Slovenia. This country is more famous for its nature rather than cities, and probably for a reason. The scenery and landscapes along the way were really beautiful, but the same sadly could not be said about Maribor. I remember the city as a gray and dull place, as if its potential has not been discovered. Then again I am pretty sure things have imrpoved in the last 15 years.		This was my first (and so far the only) visit to Slovenia. This country is more famous for its nature rather than cities, and probably for a reason. The scenery and landscapes along the way were really beautiful, but the same sadly could not be said about Maribor. I remember the city as a gray and dull place, as if its potential has not been discovered. Then again I am pretty sure things have imrpoved in the last 15 years.

	== ~~Days 7 and 8~~: Zagreb ==		== Day 6: Zagreb ==

	What a lovely place that is!		What a lovely place that is!
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	(more on Zagreb to come)		(more on Zagreb to come)

	== Day 9: road to Sarajevo ==		== Day 7: road to Sarajevo ==

	I have driven thousands of kilometres since 2008, but the road through the mountains in Bosnia and Herzegovina is easily the most spectacular I have ever taken. The roads are quite narrow, full of turns and tunnels, but the views along the way are very rewarding.		I have driven thousands of kilometres since 2008, but the road through the mountains in Bosnia and Herzegovina is easily the most spectacular I have ever taken. The roads are quite narrow, full of turns and tunnels, but the views along the way are very rewarding.
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	A small town on the way from Croatia to Sarajevo, famous for its castle on the hill. Sadly, we did not have enough time to see the city itself - we just stopped by the shop, snapped a photo of the hill and drove away.		A small town on the way from Croatia to Sarajevo, famous for its castle on the hill. Sadly, we did not have enough time to see the city itself - we just stopped by the shop, snapped a photo of the hill and drove away.

	== Day 10: Sarajevo ==		== Day 8: Sarajevo, Mostar and the road to Dubrovnik ==

			=== Sarajevo ===

	I praised Zagreb already - Sarajevo is on par. It has a vibe of a city that has been through some rough times, but it knows it came back stronger. This city is diverse, full of cultures and people mixing, coexisting and influencing one another. A surprise for me, who lived most of my life in a somewhat homogenous city that was diverse and full of cultures throughout most of its history.		I praised Zagreb already - Sarajevo is on par. It has a vibe of a city that has been through some rough times, but it knows it came back stronger. This city is diverse, full of cultures and people mixing, coexisting and influencing one another. A surprise for me, who lived most of my life in a somewhat homogenous city that was diverse and full of cultures throughout most of its history.
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	(more on Sarajevo to come)		(more on Sarajevo to come)

	== ~~Day 11:~~ Mostar ==		=== Mostar ===

	If Sarajevo was a pot in which cultures mix, then Mostar is the exact opposite of that. The river Neretva splits the city into two - and so is the separation between churches and mosques.		If Sarajevo was a pot in which cultures mix, then Mostar is the exact opposite of that. The river Neretva splits the city into two - and so is the separation between churches and mosques.
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	The second is the abandoned building near the Spanish square - a silent witness to the war.		The second is the abandoned building near the Spanish square - a silent witness to the war.

	== ~~Days 12 and 13~~: Dubrovnik ==		== Day 9: Dubrovnik ==

	(more on this overpriced place to come)		(more on this overpriced place to come)

			== Day 10: Kotor and Podgorica ==

			== Day 11: Tirane ==

			== Days 12 and 13: the road to Athens ==

			== Days 14 and 15: Athens and Piraeus ==

			== Day 16: the road to Thessaloniki ==

			== Day 17: Thessaloniki ==

			== Day 18: the road to Sofia ==

			== Day 19: Sofia ==

			== Day 20: the road to Bucharest ==

			=== Ivanovo ===

			== Day 21: Bucharest ==

			== Days 22 and 23: the road to Budapest ==

			=== Tokaj ===

			== Day 24: Budapest ==

			== Days 25 and 26: the road to Gdańsk ==

			=== Szentendre ===

			=== Visehrad ===

			== Summary ==

Miki: outline till Dubrovnik

2023-09-06T10:53:43Z

outline till Dubrovnik

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:53, 6 September 2023
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	== Day 2: Wrocław to Vienna ==		== Day 2: Wrocław to Vienna ==

	~~tbw~~		Another day spent on driving. We were briefly considering stopping in Brno, but quickly realised it is not possible, as getting out of Poland took way more time that it should. Luckily the closer to Vienna we got, the better the road was.

			== Days 3, 4 and 5: Vienna ==

			I have had a pleasure of visiting Vienna twice before that trip and every time it was a blast. It easily is in the top 10 best cities to live and be in.

			(more on Vienna to come)

			== Day 6: Graz, Maribor and the road to Zagreb ==

			The route to Zagreb, our next stop, was leading through two bigger settlements: Graz and Maribor. It was too good of an opportunity to pass it and we decided to do a few hour stop in each of the cities.

			=== Graz ===

			Graz is a charming city.

			(more on Graz to come)

			=== Maribor ===

			This was my first (and so far the only) visit to Slovenia. This country is more famous for its nature rather than cities, and probably for a reason. The scenery and landscapes along the way were really beautiful, but the same sadly could not be said about Maribor. I remember the city as a gray and dull place, as if its potential has not been discovered. Then again I am pretty sure things have imrpoved in the last 15 years.

			== Days 7 and 8: Zagreb ==

			What a lovely place that is!

			(more on Zagreb to come)

			== Day 9: road to Sarajevo ==

			I have driven thousands of kilometres since 2008, but the road through the mountains in Bosnia and Herzegovina is easily the most spectacular I have ever taken. The roads are quite narrow, full of turns and tunnels, but the views along the way are very rewarding.

			=== Jajce ===

			A small town on the way from Croatia to Sarajevo, famous for its castle on the hill. Sadly, we did not have enough time to see the city itself - we just stopped by the shop, snapped a photo of the hill and drove away.

			== Day 10: Sarajevo ==

			I praised Zagreb already - Sarajevo is on par. It has a vibe of a city that has been through some rough times, but it knows it came back stronger. This city is diverse, full of cultures and people mixing, coexisting and influencing one another. A surprise for me, who lived most of my life in a somewhat homogenous city that was diverse and full of cultures throughout most of its history.

			(more on Sarajevo to come)

			== Day 11: Mostar ==

			If Sarajevo was a pot in which cultures mix, then Mostar is the exact opposite of that. The river Neretva splits the city into two - and so is the separation between churches and mosques.
			There are two impressive sights of Mostar. The first one is obviously the bridge, completely destroyed by the Croatian Army during the Balkan war and rebuilt 10 years later (so 4 years before the trirp).
			The second is the abandoned building near the Spanish square - a silent witness to the war.

			== Days 12 and 13: Dubrovnik ==

			(more on this overpriced place to come)

Miki: started writing (finally!)

2023-09-05T14:31:30Z

started writing (finally!)

New page

The Balkan Tour, done in 2008, is the '''mother of all tours''', as it was our first expedition. We had an absolute blast and promised ourselves to come back to at least some of the places. As of writing this article (2023) we still have to do it...

== How it all started ==

One day we had a wild idea of visiting Dubrovnik for a few days, just to see the medieval Old Town. Some time later we decided to change it to Athens, as it looked even better from a tourist perspective. And as we were looking at the map, it struck us - maybe we just drive there?

And that is exactly what happened.

== Preparations ==

Back in 2008 the only reasonable online hotel booking experience was the [https://www.hrs.com Hotel Reservation System]. Roaming fees were common and mobile internet was really expensive - but also there were not that many devices to support it, as Andoid 1.0 was released in September that year. People also relied on separate GPS devices to use in their cars and those devices had limited map coverage basically anywhere east of Germany - so a paper map was also needed as a backup. Luckily, we got a road atlas of Europe that included city plans of major cities, including those in the Balkans.

We were able to plan the entire trip with online maps, booking all hotels on the way well in advance. The lack of wide-spread internet meant that we had to print copies of the reservations and carry them with us.

Things have changed since then, haven't they?

The route ended up as follows:
* Gdańsk (Poland)
* '''Wrocław'''
* '''Wien''' (Austria)
* Graz
* Maribor (Slovenia)
* '''Zagreb''' (Croatia)
* Jajce (Bosnia and Herzegovina)
* '''Sarajevo'''
* Mostar
* '''Dubrovnik'''
* Kotor (Montenegro)
* '''Podgorica'''
* '''Tirana''' (Albania)
* *'''Ιωάννινα''' (Ioannina, Greece)
* '''Αθήνα''' (Athens)
* '''Θεσσαλονίκη''' (Thessaloniki)
* '''София''' (Sofia, Bulgaria)
* '''București''' (Romania)
* '''Cluj-Napoca'''
* Tokaj (Hungary)
* '''Budapest'''
* *'''Kraków''' (Poland)
* Gdańsk

== Day 1: Gdańsk to Wrocław ==

As we visited Wrocław a few times before, we decided to skip it almost entirely. Back then (I will use this phrase often in this article - the world really is a different place in 2023 compared to 2008!) the roads in Poland were in a terrible shape and driving from Gdańsk to Wrocław took more than 8 hours - so after arriving in quite late afternoon we decided to do a quick walk around the Old Town, eat something and get to sleep before the next travel.

== Day 2: Wrocław to Vienna ==

tbw