The Balkan Tour

The Balkan Tour, done in 2008, is the mother of all tours, as it was our first expedition. We had an absolute blast and promised ourselves to come back to at least some of the places. As of writing this article (2023) we still have to do it...

How it all started

One day we had a wild idea of visiting Dubrovnik for a few days, just to see the medieval Old Town. Some time later we decided to change it to Athens, as it looked even better from a tourist perspective. And as we were looking at the map, it struck us - maybe we just drive there?

And that is exactly what happened.

Preparations

Back in 2008 the only reasonable online hotel booking experience was the Hotel Reservation System. Roaming fees were common and mobile internet was really expensive - but also there were not that many devices to support it, as Andoid 1.0 was released around the time we took the trip, in September that year. People also relied on separate GPS devices to use in their cars and those devices had limited map coverage basically anywhere east of Germany - so a paper map was also needed as a backup. Luckily, we got a road atlas of Europe that included city plans of major cities, including those in the Balkans.

We were able to plan the entire trip with online maps, booking all hotels on the way well in advance. The lack of wide-spread internet meant that we had to print copies of the reservations and carry them with us.

Things have changed since then, haven't they?

Choosing the cities

Our road from Gdańsk to Athens obviously had to take us through Dubrovnik and Vienna (because we love that city), but everything else was up for debate. Well, almost everything else. As Kosovo declared its independence in early 2008 and the Polish government quickly recognised it, we decided that driving through Serbia and Kosovo with a car on Polish numbers would be... somewhat irresponsible.

The route ended up as follows:

• Gdańsk (Poland)
• Wrocław
• Wien (Austria)
• Graz
• Maribor (Slovenia)
• Zagreb (Croatia)
• Jajce (Bosnia and Herzegovina)
• Sarajevo
• Mostar
• Dubrovnik
• Kotor (Montenegro)
• Podgorica
• Tirana (Albania)
• *Ιωάννινα (Ioannina, Greece)
• Αθήνα (Athens)
• Θεσσαλονίκη (Thessaloniki)
• София (Sofia, Bulgaria)
• București (Romania)
• Cluj-Napoca
• Tokaj (Hungary)
• Budapest
• *Kraków (Poland)
• Gdańsk

Day 1: Gdańsk to Wrocław

As we visited Wrocław a few times before, we decided to skip it almost entirely. Back then (I will use this phrase often in this article - the world really is a different place in 2023/24 compared to 2008!) the roads in Poland were in a terrible shape and driving from Gdańsk to Wrocław took more than 8 hours - so after arriving in quite late afternoon we decided to do a quick walk around the Old Town, eat something and get to sleep before the next travel.

Day 2: Wrocław to Vienna

Another day spent on driving. We were briefly considering stopping in Brno, but quickly realised it is not possible, as getting out of Poland took way more time that it should. Luckily the closer to Vienna we got, the better the road was. Things have improved in the recent years and now it is possible to drive from Gdańsk to Vienna in one day with the motorway A1 that cuts through the entire country to Czechia.

Day 3: The Wachau Valley

Vienna is located on the Danube river, one of the most important rivers in Europe. It roughly flows north-west to south-east through the city, but before it enters the capital, it baiscally flows west to east. Along the Danube, roughly an hour drive away, lies Krems and other charming cities in the Wachau Valley. Notably, the cultural landscape of the valley is the UNESCO World Heritage. The list itself has been very helpful in planning other trips, not only this one.

Days 4: Vienna

I have had a pleasure of visiting Vienna twice before that trip and every time it was a blast. It easily is in the top 10 best cities to live and be in.

(more on Vienna to come)

Day 5: Graz, Maribor and the road to Zagreb

The route to Zagreb, our next stop, was leading through two bigger settlements: Graz and Maribor. It was too good of an opportunity to pass it and we decided to do a few hour stop in each of the cities.

Graz

Graz is a charming city.

(more on Graz to come)

Maribor

This was my first (and as of 2024 also the only) visit to Slovenia. This country is more famous for its nature rather than cities, and probably for a reason. The scenery and landscapes along the way were really beautiful, but the same sadly could not be said about Maribor. I remember the city as a gray and dull place, as if its potential has not been discovered. Then again I am pretty sure things have imrpoved in the last 15 years.

Day 6: Zagreb

What a lovely place that is!

(more on Zagreb to come)

Day 7: The road to Sarajevo

I have driven thousands of kilometres since 2008, but the road through the mountains in Bosnia and Herzegovina is easily the most spectacular I have ever taken. The roads are quite narrow, full of turns and tunnels, but the views along the way are very rewarding.

Jajce

A small town on the way from Croatia to Sarajevo, famous for its castle on the hill. Sadly, we did not have enough time to see the city itself - we just stopped by a shop, snapped a photo of the hill and drove away.

Jajce and Banja Luka are located within Republika Srpska, a part of Bosnia and Herzegovina with a Serbian majority... and it shows, sometimes in a bad way. For example, the city signs should feature names written in both the cyryllic and latin alphabets, but often the latin parts were spayed black.

Day 8: Sarajevo, Mostar and the road to Dubrovnik

Sarajevo

I praised Zagreb already - Sarajevo is on par. It has a vibe of a city that has been through some rough times, but it knows it came back stronger. This city is diverse, full of cultures and people mixing, coexisting and influencing one another. A surprise for me, who lived most of my life in a somewhat homogenous city (that was diverse and full of cultures throughout its history, but not in the present).

(more on Sarajevo to come)

Mostar

If Sarajevo was a pot in which cultures mix, then Mostar is the exact opposite of that. The river Neretva splits the city into two - and so is the separation between churches and mosques. There are two impressive sights of Mostar. The first one is obviously the bridge, completely destroyed by the Croatian Army during the Balkan war and rebuilt 10 years later (so 4 years before we took the trirp). The second is the abandoned building near the Spanish square - a silent witness to the war.

Day 9: Dubrovnik

The city walls and the old town are impressive sights for sure. Equally impressive are the prices for every single thing in this town - from the climate tax added on top of already expensive hotel prices to sightseeing tours on the city walls themselves. This attitude of an endless stream of tourists that flock to see Dubrovnik obviously negatively affects the level of service across the city.

(more on this overpriced place to come)

Day 10: Kotor and Podgorica

Kotor is located on what is often called _the southernmost fiord_, less than 100 km south from Dubrovnik. It is also an old city within city walls, but way less crowded than its definitely more famous Croatian counterpart. This naturally affects the prices in a good way - even us, a pair of students, could afford a table of cheese and some prsut in a fancy looking place within the Old Town.

Day 11: Tirana

Ah, Albania. The country (back then) nobody wanted to go to. Neither did we, but the alternative route to Greece leads through Serbia and 2008 was when Kosovo declared its independence, which Poland quickly recognised. Therefore, we thought going through Serbia with a Polish-registered vehicle was not a smart move - and that forced us to go through Albania.

To be fair, it was not that different from the surrounding regions. Sure, maybe a bit poorer and less developed, but making up the difference with hospitality and just absolutely fabulous food. Tirana itself is an interesting city with many monuments to its troubled modern history.

Days 12 and 13: The road to Athens

Crossing Albania took us an entire day full of adventures, including a car crash somewhere in the mountains. Luckily, nobody got hurt and the only thing that suffered was the left-side front door. And a few hours of waiting until someone with a decent knowledge of English from the nearby village showed up ;) This accident _crashed_ our hopes of seeing Gjirokastër, a city with an Ottoman-built Old Town.

A few hours later we crossed the border with Greece and got greeted by an absolute lack of respect for driving laws. I gave up following them when a truck overtook me in the middle of a residential area in a no-overtaking zone. After a night in Ioannina we continued for a few hours to finally reach the capital.

Days 14 and 15: Athens and Piraeus

Athens is, by far, the worst place I have ever driven a car in. If you take the chaotic traffic out, it turns out to be a nice city that, surprisingly, did not feel like a tourist trap. Sure, there were a few of "watah, watah ma frind? one euro only for you! no watah? umbrella? tree euro for you only!" and a few "want to visit a nice place? a really nice place, you know?" and some "you need a ticket? the booth is closed already, but I have a few left", but other than that is was just a nice and pleasant sightseeing.

And yes, the Parthenon is a remarkable site and seeing something that has thousands of years leaves you in awe. But millions of words were written about that already.

Day 16: The road to Thessaloniki

This entire day was spent on driving north to Thessaloniki. On the way we stopped at Thermopylae, where a monument of Leonidas stands at the memorial of the famous battle.

Day 17: Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki is an interesting place. On one hand it has a beatufiul boulevard by the sea with its famous tower and quite a number of old churches, ruins and the like. On the other, there are countless abandoned buildings, the feeling of not being of any interest to tourism in general and maybe also of not being interested in tourism? Either way, the city is well worth visiting, as the prices were cheaper than in Athens and the food was equally delicious.

Day 18: The road to Sofia

Yet another day spent on driving with very little history.

Day 19: Sofia

Sofia is full of everything - it is one of those destinations that slip under the radar, because, be honest, why would you even go to Bulgaria? Yet, there it is - not as clean and polished as major capitals, definitely poor, but filled to the brim with interesting locations. One of them being the Boyana Church from 11th century, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Day 20: The road to Bucharest

And another day spent on driving, but this time with a stop to another World Heritage Site.

Ivanovo

Few kilometres from the city of Ivanovo (itself a little detour from the road E85 connecting Bulgaria with Bucharest) are the Rock-hewn churches. Located in the middle of beautiful nowhere, with breath-taking views of the river Rusenski Lom, the remainings of those churches are a real gem.

Day 21: Bucharest

If there is a monument to a sick ambition of a derailed person, modern Bucharest has to be one. The entire centre of the city was demolished to make room for a ridiculously overgrown Palace of the Parliment. This thing is so large that it is almost impossible to comprehend - when looked at from Unirii park, the Palace is already massive and dominates over everything else, and it is still over a kilometre away! Mere walking the streets around it takes about an hour.

Aside from that Bucharest has a few interesting churches and buildings hidden from plain view, as if they escaped the mad man that was in charge. Which probably is true.

All in all, Bucharest was a mixed bag. It has its landmarks, but is not a place that left me willing to see more.

Days 22 and 23: The road to Budapest

And another day on driving.

Summary

The Mother of All Trips lasted nearly four weeks and included about 5500 km of driving over 12 countries. The experience, however, was well worth the trouble. As the following years show, it was not a one time show.